When ordering a custom-made wedding dress, you’ll usually be asked to provide both your height and hollow-to-hem measurement. Many brides are confused by these two measurements: What are they used for? What’s the difference between them? And why do you need to provide both?
This guide explains the difference between height and hollow to hem, and exactly how to measure each one correctly.
What Is Height?
Height is your full body height, measured barefoot from the top of your head straight down to the floor.
Stand naturally without shoes, keep your body straight, and look forward while someone takes the measurement.
For a custom-made wedding dress, height provides an overall reference for your body and can also help the dressmaker cross-check your other vertical measurements, particularly hollow to hem.
What Is Hollow to Hem?
The hollow is the small indentation at the base of your neck, between your collarbones.
Hollow to hem is measured from this point straight down to where you want the finished front hem of your wedding dress to end.
This is the key distinction:
Hollow to hem does not necessarily mean hollow to floor.
The hem is the bottom edge of your wedding dress. If you want the front of your gown to just touch the floor, measure to the floor. If you want it to sit slightly above the floor, measure only to that point.
In other words, hollow to hem represents the actual finished front length you want for your dress.
Should You Wear Shoes When Measuring Hollow to Hem?
Yes. Wear the shoes you plan to wear on your wedding day, or a pair that gives you the same actual height.
Then measure from the hollow straight down to the exact point where you want the front hem to end.
If you prefer the dress to clear the floor—for easier walking, an outdoor wedding, or to reduce the chance of stepping on the hem—you may want the front hem to sit about 1 inch (2.5 cm) above the floor. In that case, simply stop the measurement 1 inch above the floor.
Why Do Dressmakers Need Both Measurements?
Height and hollow to hem serve different purposes.
Height gives the dressmaker an overall reference for your stature and helps cross-check whether your vertical measurements are reasonable.
Hollow to hem determines the actual finished length of the front of your gown.
This is also why hollow to hem cannot simply be calculated from your height. Two brides can be exactly the same height but have different body proportions, so their hollow-to-hem measurements may be different.
Likewise, the shoes you wear and where you want the hem to fall will affect the final measurement.
So even when your height is known, your hollow to hem should always be measured directly.
What If Your Wedding Dress Has a Train?
Hollow to hem is generally used to determine the front length of a full-length wedding dress. The additional length at the back is determined separately by the design and pattern of the gown.
If your wedding dress has a train, do not add extra inches to your hollow-to-hem measurement.